Greetings from Estonia
Greetings from Estonia
Hi
I am Ülari, from Estonia. New owner of FE83 Little Wing. It is a early model, with stringers not reaching bottom of the bilge, that is something I plan to fix first.
My goal for next year is to to a bottom job, fill in unnecessary through-hulls, find good used sails and race as much as possible (If not in 2018, but our goal is to sail class regattas in Finland). We are young team aged 17-25 and "graduated" from Polaris quarter tonner. Our youngest crew member (etiirinen in this forum) is half estonian, half finnish, so i guess he will be liaison.
Also would like to ask some advice:
Front end hull-keel joint does not look good:
What would you recommend? To grind it open and glass over is my plan. Actually I plan to glass over all keel with 1-2 layers of 300g biaxial, to keep the rust in bay
I am Ülari, from Estonia. New owner of FE83 Little Wing. It is a early model, with stringers not reaching bottom of the bilge, that is something I plan to fix first.
My goal for next year is to to a bottom job, fill in unnecessary through-hulls, find good used sails and race as much as possible (If not in 2018, but our goal is to sail class regattas in Finland). We are young team aged 17-25 and "graduated" from Polaris quarter tonner. Our youngest crew member (etiirinen in this forum) is half estonian, half finnish, so i guess he will be liaison.
Also would like to ask some advice:
Front end hull-keel joint does not look good:
What would you recommend? To grind it open and glass over is my plan. Actually I plan to glass over all keel with 1-2 layers of 300g biaxial, to keep the rust in bay
s / y Lagle III (EST-554)
- harald
- Hallitus
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- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 14:32 pm
- Location: P-helsinki
- Vene: Charlotta
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Glassing over gives a good finish (in more than one sense). Just check that the keel bolts are tight first, so the keel doesn't move around and crack the glass-job over the first wave.
I have been waiting for Estonians actually. We sailed your ORC championship a few years ago (2011) against a Polaris called Edasi. It felt like a FE83 is a good boat for your waters.
There are some pictures from our glassing-over project over there:
https://www.fe83.org/gallery/view_album ... 103&page=3
I have been waiting for Estonians actually. We sailed your ORC championship a few years ago (2011) against a Polaris called Edasi. It felt like a FE83 is a good boat for your waters.
There are some pictures from our glassing-over project over there:
https://www.fe83.org/gallery/view_album ... 103&page=3
FIN-2674 s/y Charlotta [Mielipiteet on mielipiteitä] GSM: +358 50 594 1020
- harald
- Hallitus
- Posts: 11047
- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 14:32 pm
- Location: P-helsinki
- Vene: Charlotta
- Contact:
Regarding keel bolts: https://www.fe83.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1238#1238
FIN-2674 s/y Charlotta [Mielipiteet on mielipiteitä] GSM: +358 50 594 1020
I noticed your victory at BOW 2011, Edasi is by far the fastest Polaris in Estonia, or was, they moved to 34.7
Your win there is probably main reason I started to look into FE83.
What would FE genoa3 measurements be? And is tuff-luff allowed in class rules?
Your win there is probably main reason I started to look into FE83.
What would FE genoa3 measurements be? And is tuff-luff allowed in class rules?
s / y Lagle III (EST-554)
- harald
- Hallitus
- Posts: 11047
- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 14:32 pm
- Location: P-helsinki
- Vene: Charlotta
- Contact:
I actually don't know the exact measurements, WB-sails have them.
Tuff-luff is allowed. We have rather open class rules. The gain vs. having hanks is debatable though. In windward-leeward racing I think it's nice to have the sail hanging on to the boat without anyone having to go on the bow.
Tuff-luff is allowed. We have rather open class rules. The gain vs. having hanks is debatable though. In windward-leeward racing I think it's nice to have the sail hanging on to the boat without anyone having to go on the bow.
FIN-2674 s/y Charlotta [Mielipiteet on mielipiteitä] GSM: +358 50 594 1020
Ok, I was thinking about using Polaris medium genoa as G3.
Do you sheet G3 inside or outside of shrouds?
Do you sheet G3 inside or outside of shrouds?
s / y Lagle III (EST-554)
You can find some sail measurements in Merelli's ORCi sertificate http://avomeripurjehtijat.org/orc_mitta ... L-2545.pdf
I think the latest is from 2014, but G3 measurements should be valid. G3 is always sheeted inside. It's also a good idea to install inhaulers for G3 sheets.
I think the latest is from 2014, but G3 measurements should be valid. G3 is always sheeted inside. It's also a good idea to install inhaulers for G3 sheets.
Olli Niemi
Are there any pictures of serious racing FE83 deck layout?
Also I was thinking, that if I must glass over and fill the low spots on my keel anyway, it would be good idea to profile it also. Can someone recommend what profile I would need to use to make templates?
Also I was thinking, that if I must glass over and fill the low spots on my keel anyway, it would be good idea to profile it also. Can someone recommend what profile I would need to use to make templates?
s / y Lagle III (EST-554)
The original profile is (at least supposed to be) 65A010.
However, the cast iron shape is slightly thicker than this profile, so at least I needed to scale the profile a bit thicker to be able to fit it on the keel. Also, this profile is very sharp on the leading edge and as such, it is not very forgiving. Something with a bit rounder leading edge is likely much better. Either just rounding the original profile or looking for some other naca profile.
This is how I measured mine: https://www.fe83.org/gallery/view_album ... 308&page=1
As for actually applying the filler on the keel, a very good approach is to apply two guide strips on the bottom and top part of the keel and then using metal tubes to “roll” the shape on to the surface between the guide fillings. This is, liberally apply the filler between the shape guides and then on top of the filler, place a perforated release film or peel ply and then squeeze out the excess filler with the tubes. Then simply let the filler harden and afterwards pull off the peel ply cloth or film. With this method you will be very close to the final shape after the first round of filling.
It is important to use a release film with holes in it (perforated release film) or use peel ply cloth to let the trapped air to escape while rolling the shape onto the keel, otherwise there will be a lot of tiny air pockets in the filling ,which after sanding will become pinholes that need additional filling. The method is described here (chapter 8.3): http://www.westsysteminternational.com/ ... enance.pdf
I am not sure if glassing over the entire keel is necessary. Being an iron keel, it will at some point, start to rust again, regardless of what is on top of the surface. At that time, it might be easier to sand through an epoxy filler rather than a glass layer.
However, the cast iron shape is slightly thicker than this profile, so at least I needed to scale the profile a bit thicker to be able to fit it on the keel. Also, this profile is very sharp on the leading edge and as such, it is not very forgiving. Something with a bit rounder leading edge is likely much better. Either just rounding the original profile or looking for some other naca profile.
This is how I measured mine: https://www.fe83.org/gallery/view_album ... 308&page=1
As for actually applying the filler on the keel, a very good approach is to apply two guide strips on the bottom and top part of the keel and then using metal tubes to “roll” the shape on to the surface between the guide fillings. This is, liberally apply the filler between the shape guides and then on top of the filler, place a perforated release film or peel ply and then squeeze out the excess filler with the tubes. Then simply let the filler harden and afterwards pull off the peel ply cloth or film. With this method you will be very close to the final shape after the first round of filling.
It is important to use a release film with holes in it (perforated release film) or use peel ply cloth to let the trapped air to escape while rolling the shape onto the keel, otherwise there will be a lot of tiny air pockets in the filling ,which after sanding will become pinholes that need additional filling. The method is described here (chapter 8.3): http://www.westsysteminternational.com/ ... enance.pdf
I am not sure if glassing over the entire keel is necessary. Being an iron keel, it will at some point, start to rust again, regardless of what is on top of the surface. At that time, it might be easier to sand through an epoxy filler rather than a glass layer.
Last edited by mihor on Wed Dec 06, 2017 12:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
s/y Mariko, FIN-2380
Thanks
Unfortunately I can not start doing prep work yet, because my boat is in Porvoo. So my plan is to sail her to Estonia in spring as soon as ice is gone. And then lift her out and start working.
Has anybody used different profile than 65a010? I was thinking about 0012, however I do not want to experiment, since it seems that original works actually really good.
I think, next year me or Eino (he is the one who speaks finnish) will join the club
Unfortunately I can not start doing prep work yet, because my boat is in Porvoo. So my plan is to sail her to Estonia in spring as soon as ice is gone. And then lift her out and start working.
Has anybody used different profile than 65a010? I was thinking about 0012, however I do not want to experiment, since it seems that original works actually really good.
I think, next year me or Eino (he is the one who speaks finnish) will join the club
s / y Lagle III (EST-554)
Another question:
Since we are looking for used racing sails, can you tell me what can be the maximum P and E for a mainsail. I don`t mean class rules, but what would be the maximum I can fit. There is one mainsail for sale in Estonia, but it is few cm over-sized. So I was thinking to buy it, if I cant find used class legal sail.
Since we are looking for used racing sails, can you tell me what can be the maximum P and E for a mainsail. I don`t mean class rules, but what would be the maximum I can fit. There is one mainsail for sale in Estonia, but it is few cm over-sized. So I was thinking to buy it, if I cant find used class legal sail.
s / y Lagle III (EST-554)