harald wrote:that would be like (an engineer) tuning a violin

That's sounds like my first experience to tune a guitar...

Thanks everybody, the boat is now on water, the mast is in place. Looks OK.

Special thanks to Harald for the detailed manual.

Hello,

Soon it will be time to put mast on. What is the right way to properly tension forestay and shrouds? Shall I use a tension meter to ease the job? What would be the right numbers then? Or shall a real FE sailor tune shrouds like violin strings?

Alex

harald wrote:How good is your Finnish?

It is not good, unfortunately. I can slowly read and can speak when nobody is around or I am trapped or both. English is OK.

I sent the application by e-mail.

harald wrote:Why not become a member?

I already asked myself couple of times. I always find a perfect excuse - "I can always do it tomorrow". Probably, it's now the time. Especially since you asked.

I saw one pretty good tool in Biltema for about 55¤ and many crappy ones for 7-10 ¤¤. 55¤ sounds too much for amount of work I need (have to fix a block to the mast), but 10¤ could work...

Hello,

Does anybody have a rivet tool (niittipihti) to borrow for a weekend or two in Helsinki area? Will use with care and will be thankful.

Alex

I would think it is unnecessary to use high strenght materials as AISI304 or AISI316 in through hull's. They both have a tendecy to jam the threads. Brass as a softer material is more feasible and still harder than surrounding material (glassfibre). Get less jammed pipe connectors.. use brass. Yes,...

Thanks to everybody. Have got lots of interesting information about materials.

harald wrote:Well, the whole hull is composite, so why shouldn't the thru-hull be?

Perhaps since hull has no small moving parts...

Petri wrote:Do not use stainless steel in boats, ever.
If you want to use steel, check that you are using acid proof steel (haponkestävä).

Well, I thought all boat stainless steel stuff is acid proof...

There's prolly a reason why most thru-hulls are bronze? That's what I stumbled upon. I was stainless steel ready but then I recalled most thru-hulls I saw were bronze... Have you thought about a composite thru-hull? It doesn't rust, corrode and as a bonus it becomes very flush with the bottom of th...

Hello, I am about to install a hose fitting (läpivienti), but fell into material thoughts - what is better, bronze or stainless steel? I would rather pick up steel - it doesn't rust, doesn't corrode, it's everlasting. However, many boats have bronze fittings - there should be a reason. At least, I c...

FE-Sillanpää wrote:I installed the sensor inside. No hole for the sensor is the best and most secure solution. I just attached the sensor about 50cm in front of the keel with sikaflex.

So, it easily works through GRP?

FE-Sillanpää wrote:this does not apply for the hose

That could have been nice, however...

I can lend you that chuck/holder for that cup circular saw. I don't think I have a 42mm cup though. We have this "lainapiiri" (lending ring) within our club. Thank you. Those holders/cups are fairly inexpensive and I perhaps need two different sizes so I'll go shopping. But it's good to k...