Yanmar 1GM questions

by **juhanil** » Sat Nov 03, 2007 20:37 pm

Hi - my advice is that you empty the motor from all seawater first when the boat is on hard. Then you put in bucket 50/50 tap water/Zero100 glycol and insert inlet to bucket. Then you insert cooling water outlet also to bucket in order to reach full circulation between bucket and motor. You may keep circulation about 10 - 15 minutes and then motors' water space is full of antifreeze. Then you loose outlet from bucket and insert it to rubber outlet to ensure that the muffle will not freeze.
Good wintertime

by **alex** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 08:01 am

Thanks to everybody, I did the job.

by **Panu** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 21:12 pm

harald wrote:I think that running the engine at idle or fast idle, without any water coming out the mixing elbow (since you return the water to the
bucket) will blow the whole exhaust dry. I don't know, but has worked
for us all these years..

Hello sailors

Like Harald says that it has never been a problem for his boat. I feel that this is because exhaust pipe with acessories is being made of elastic material. Little expansion for elastic material will not usually do any harm.

It is totally different situation with engine block and cylinder head. These parts are made of cast iron...

by **Artsi** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 20:13 pm

harald wrote:
Artsi wrote:
The good thing with doing the bucket-thing is that you don't blow
antifreeze out the exhaust into the sea. The mix is easily disposed
of in a proper fashion.
I was wondering one thing in this system: If You do the loop-thing, so no antifreeze gets into exhaust pipe. So, there will be quite large amount of water in the exhaust pipe ower winter without antifreezer. Isn´t there some hazard?
I think that running the engine at idle or fast idle, without any water
coming out the mixing elbow (since you return the water to the
bucket) will blow the whole exhaust dry. I don't know, but has worked
for us all these years..

Perhaps You are right. I`ll do it "in Your way" then!

Artsi

by **harald** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 16:17 pm

Artsi wrote:
The good thing with doing the bucket-thing is that you don't blow
antifreeze out the exhaust into the sea. The mix is easily disposed
of in a proper fashion.
I was wondering one thing in this system: If You do the loop-thing, so no antifreeze gets into exhaust pipe. So, there will be quite large amount of water in the exhaust pipe ower winter without antifreezer. Isn´t there some hazard?

I think that running the engine at idle or fast idle, without any water
coming out the mixing elbow (since you return the water to the
bucket) will blow the whole exhaust dry. I don't know, but has worked
for us all these years..

by **harald** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 16:16 pm

Panu wrote:
alex wrote: Why do you leave intake pipe attached to the engine? Does it matter if some antifreeze leaks out? It's important there is no water in the engine - it most likely breaks the cylinder block when freezes, but to my point of view empty intake channel makes no harm since it won't freeze, too. Or do I miss something?

Yes, brand new.
Hello Alex

During winter I allways keep the intake pipe attached to engine so that the liquid level in pipe is higher than cylinder head. This will keep cylinder head allways wet with antifreece (and its very important corrosion inhibitors) . In case that liquid can flow back or leak out, the cylinder head will be dry. Then combination of moist air, cast iron ja finnish cold winter can and will do the trick (read corrosion) .

This was my point as well, keeping the antifreeze (which contains
anti-corrosive agents as well) inside the engine is probably a better
idea than letting the stuff out.

by **FE-Sillanpää** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:19 am

Here..
http://picasaweb.google.com/heikki.b/Ya ... skunnostus

by **Guest** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:03 am

I have a sea water filter in my 1GM10, which makes this job very easy. I just drain the cooling system, open the sea water filter, take the water pipe off the mixing elbow and put it into the sea water filter and pour 50% antifreeze to the sea water filter. In order to keep the exhaust gases out it is a good idea to block the water connection of the mixing elbow.

About 2 L is needed to keep the sea water filter filled during "looping". I will keep the engine running until the water overheat beeper goes on also monitoring the exhaust pipe temperature in order not to melt the pipe (I have usually stopped the engine for while during this process). The water overheat beeper goes on at very low temperature (under 70) in order to protect the engine from sea water corrosion. With fresh water the normal operating temperature is much higher (~90) so there is no harm done to the engine.

After this I connect the pipe back to the mixing elbow, start the engine and pour antifreeze to the sea water filter for a while in order to fill the exhaust pipe with antifreeze. I use another 1-2 L for this and stop the engine while there still is antifreeze in the sea water filter.

Joakim

by **Erkka** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 08:59 am

And that´s why I used to let the engine run for a while without making the loop, and when the blue or red stuff was coming out, I stalled the engine, changed oil and made the loop system. And again abt 15 min of dry-land-driving.

by **Artsi** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 08:41 am

The good thing with doing the bucket-thing is that you don't blow
antifreeze out the exhaust into the sea. The mix is easily disposed
of in a proper fashion.

I was wondering one thing in this system: If You do the loop-thing, so no antifreeze gets into exhaust pipe. So, there will be quite large amount of water in the exhaust pipe ower winter without antifreezer. Isn´t there some hazard?

Artsi

by **Panu** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 00:44 am

alex wrote: Why do you leave intake pipe attached to the engine? Does it matter if some antifreeze leaks out? It's important there is no water in the engine - it most likely breaks the cylinder block when freezes, but to my point of view empty intake channel makes no harm since it won't freeze, too. Or do I miss something?

Yes, brand new.

Hello Alex

During winter I allways keep the intake pipe attached to engine so that the liquid level in pipe is higher than cylinder head. This will keep cylinder head allways wet with antifreece (and its very important corrosion inhibitors)

. In case that liquid can flow back or leak out, the cylinder head will be dry. Then combination of moist air, cast iron ja finnish cold winter can and will do the trick (read corrosion)

.

by **alex** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 23:44 pm

Petri wrote:8 liters usually I've used 2-3 l and when the stuff coming out of the exhaust pipe is coolant, I've stopped the engine.

I just have no clue - this is my first boat engine ever. I remember mixing elbow looks big...

Petri wrote:Of course you know about the Finnish legistlation about collecting the coolant from the exhaust pipe Even in dockyard.

Yeah, I know, but it's good you remind me.

by **Petri** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 23:31 pm

alex wrote:I already removed the thermostat, so nothing will prevent the coolant flow. And the boat is ashore already - I won't pollute the sea in any way. I am just trying to figure out if 8 litres of antifreeze (the mix) is enough to fill up the system. But it's a good point to make a loop - I could first run the engine on fresh water to wash out salt and then use antifreeze. This way I might also find out the "capacity" of cooling system.

Why do you leave intake pipe attached to the engine? Does it matter if some antifreeze leaks out? It's important there is no water in the engine - it most likely breaks the cylinder block when freezes, but to my point of view empty intake channel makes no harm since it won't freeze, too. Or do I miss something?

Yes, brand new.

8 liters

usually I've used 2-3 l and when the stuff coming out of the exhaust pipe is coolant, I've stopped the engine.
Of course I don't know whether that is enough or too little, but at least so far our engine has survived the winters just fine.
We usually do this right after the boat is lifted from the water so the engine is still warm.

Of course you know about the Finnish legistlation about collecting the coolant from the exhaust pipe

Even in dockyard.

by **alex** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 23:01 pm

I already removed the thermostat, so nothing will prevent the coolant flow. And the boat is ashore already - I won't pollute the sea in any way. I am just trying to figure out if 8 litres of antifreeze (the mix) is enough to fill up the system. But it's a good point to make a loop - I could first run the engine on fresh water to wash out salt and then use antifreeze. This way I might also find out the "capacity" of cooling system.

Why do you leave intake pipe attached to the engine? Does it matter if some antifreeze leaks out? It's important there is no water in the engine - it most likely breaks the cylinder block when freezes, but to my point of view empty intake channel makes no harm since it won't freeze, too. Or do I miss something?

Yes, brand new.

by **harald** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 22:41 pm

One problem is the thermostat, you really don't know if it's open and
lets the coolantmix flush the engine completely. That's why i take a
10l bucket and make a 40/60% mix of anticoolant and not-so-cold
water. I take off the hose from the mixing elbow and use another
hose, slightly larger in diameter and lead that back to the bucket.
Then put the suction hose inside the bucket, and run the engine at
idle or a little more. Now the mix gets pumped through the engine
again and again, when the bucket in the water is warm you can be
fairly shure that the thermostat is open. If I recall correctly it opens
at 45°C or so.

The good thing with doing the bucket-thing is that you don't blow
antifreeze out the exhaust into the sea. The mix is easily disposed
of in a proper fashion.

Leave the suction hose attached to the engine over winter, I tape
it or tie it with a piece of string so that the coolant doesn't flow
back out.

don't know about the belt, sorry. Take the belt with you to a shop and
ask for one of the same dimensions?

New FE83-owner?

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