Alternative A, even with Sikaflex instead of epoxi, would have been more than adequate. At least it has worked flawlessly in my boat with (40 m2 main sail 1:4 traveller and in many other places). Of course this depends on the thickness of the laminate. If it is sandwhich at that spot, more care is needed to avoid leaks.

I put my cleats slightly forward of the traveler. This way the back plate and nuts can be installed inside the “glove compartment” and any leaking does not matter as the box is full of water anyway.

The small difference in the line angle to the traveler does not have any practical effect on the functionality. Aesthetically it would of course be better if the lines would run parallel to the traveler, but I could not justify the extra work on my installation.

http://www.fe83.org/gallery/view_album. ... e=album409

You can easily modify Your system as done in this picture, part 5:

http://www.fe83.org/gallery/view_photo. ... RTOLEVANKI

Works in fixed system too. No needs to drill holes.

Thinking about amount of drilling equipment and holes I have option B does not look that bad.

Alternative A): drill two small holes, and use selftapping screws secured with a little bit of epoxy.

Alternative B): use a saw, and make an "inspection hatch" in the ceiling of the pipe cot.

We did B, but afterwards I think I would've been just as well with A. The problem with us is that we haven't still got around making the hatch where we made the hole. So we have a gaping hole in the ceiling.

Hello all,

A question to those who have installed mainsheet traveler trimming lines to coamings. Starboard coaming seems to have some inner volume exactly on the place where I would install a camcleat. What is the best way/place to reach the inner space in order to install backplate and nuts and how to seal it after that to keep a possibility to reach it again e.g. to replace the camcleat in case of damage?

I was thinking about opening the inner volume from the "pocket" under the sheeting winch, but it requires waterproof sealing or else it will never dry out there. Another option perhaps could be to drill the coaming from inside and installing an inspection hatch for easy access in future. One way or another it's always best to ask from experienced people before drilling vulnerable fiberglass.

Port coaming does not seem to be a problem.

Alex